In the Republic of Sakha, horses are abundant — by the end of 2023, local Ministry of Agriculture specialists have estimated the population to be around 182 thousand. This number accounts for 14% of the total herd of horses across all Russian regions, marking a record high for the year. These numbers were reached due to a substantial increase in agricultural funding, which amounted to RUB 15.8 bn across all sectors. Over the past 4 years, the amount of subsidies for agricultural enterprises in Yakutsk and municipal districts has grown from RUB 4.3 bn to RUB 7.3 bn, with the proportion of subsidies to local budgets in the overall limit of the state agricultural development program rising from 40 to 47%.

Several indicators of agricultural and food production saw an increase in the republic last year. Compared to 2022, there was a 20% rise in gross grain harvest, a 17% increase in vegetable production, and an uptick in the amount of hay collected, milk produced and egg yield. However, it seems that horse breeding doesn't hold as much importance in modern agriculture. Indeed, why would we need horses today when we have tractors, combines, snowmobiles and all-terrain vehicles? In Yakutia, they're needed for culinary purposes. As of March 2023, horse breeding is present in every municipality in the Republic of Sakha, with over 1,800 herdsmen employed in the sector. The farms produce foal meat and milk, which are integral to the Yakut cuisine. Stroganina from young foal meat, baked oyogos ribs, blood sausage, boiled meat and, of course, koumiss are essential elements of both festive and everyday meals in the Republic of Sakha. Local producers widely use horse meat in both traditional and contemporary recipes, incorporating local flavours into the fine dining of restaurants and gastronomic festivals.   

And it's not just about the familiar taste of the meat — these tasty horses also offer significant health benefits.

Just 150 grams of boiled foal meat can fulfil 81% of a person's daily protein requirement, 21% of fats and 15–19% of various vitamins. Restaurateurs highlight the high marbling of Yakutian horse meat, which is perfect for preparing steaks, beefsteaks, tartare and other meat dishes. Interestingly, horse meat, like venison, is often served in kindergartens, hospitals and other social institutions. According to the Sakha Parliament portal, meat and dairy farming is the most common type of farming in Yakut horse breeding. In 2023, approximately RUB 569 mn was allocated to support the development of the industry.

One distinct advantage of the Yakut breed is its adaptation to the Far North climate. In the Arctic and sub-Arctic climates, it is primarily kept free-range, foraging for its own food from under the snow. Its 15-centimetre fur and dense undercoat provide excellent protection against frost, even when temperatures drop below –70°C. According to researchers, the Yakut native horse has changed little since its domestication, maintaining its survival skills and low maintenance needs. This allows for significant savings on the construction of permanent structures for horse breeding — many bases are simply fenced-off areas with a cabin for the herders and their assistants.

However, Yakuts not only consume horses but also use them for transportation. In remote areas and when navigating difficult terrain, Yakut horses remain one of the few versatile modes of transportation. They easily navigate challenging landscapes, can ascend mountains and traverse dense forests. Traditionally, Yakut hunters embark on their hunting trips on their trusty steeds. Certainly, Yakut horses can't match most breeds in terms of speed and beauty, nor can they carry heavy loads. Their average height at the withers is merely 135–137 cm, and they have a shorter stride and slower gallop compared to other horses. However, their tall and broad-chested relatives from Russia's mid-zone would likely struggle to traverse half a metre of snow for dozens of kilometres, let alone find satisfaction in the frozen grass beneath it. The main Ysyakh festival annually hosts competitions for the best riders (and chefs).  

Interestingly, in Yakutia, there's a clear distinction between horses for riding and those for slaughter — people never ride the latter. After all, you wouldn't eat a faithful friend, would you?