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Who needs deer and down? Natural insulators for Arctic apparel

Insulation ideas for Arctic fashion

27 february 2024

As they say beyond the Urals, "A Siberian is not someone who doesn't get cold, but someone who dresses warmly." This saying is even more applicable to the Arctic, where appropriate clothing is essential for survival, and not just in the wilderness. The quest for the perfect insulator to prevent people from turning into ice statues has been ongoing for over a century and continues today.

Initially, the pioneers of the Arctic adopted the practices of the indigenous population, swapping their military uniforms for kukhlyanki (fur garments) and torbas (waterproof footwear). The multi-layered system of various types of fabric and wool allowed tundra nomads and sea hunters to survive there for thousands of years, so it seemed logical to simply adopt their methods.

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In his book Taymyr — My Northern Land, famous explorer Nikolai Urvantsev writes, "I wore simple knitted and woolen underwear, a woolen sweater, a fur shirt with a hood made of young reindeer fur on the inside; fur pants with a waistband into which the shirt was tucked; on my feet — simple knitted and woolen socks, long stockings with fur inside going up to the waist, and finally, fur boots, also up to the waist, called 'bakari.'"

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Over this layer, he wore a canvas hooded shirt and pants and only used the famous kuhlyanka in the most severe frosts.

However, after some time, it became clear that polar explorers had much higher insulation requirements than reindeer herders. Traveling in higher latitudes, they ventured into such cold places where no human had ever lived before. In these places, wool, fur, and canvas could not withstand the temperature, putting people's lives and health at risk. In the cities and at the mineral resource sites, the pioneers had significantly different work activities and lifestyles, which necessitated the search for and creation of new materials. Over the past century, complex synthetic membrane fabrics have been developed that wick excess moisture away from the body, allow the skin to "breathe", and are hypoallergenic, which is crucial in an era of mass production. It would seem that clothes made from natural materials should have become less popular, but even in the early 21st century there are still plenty of opportunities for using natural materials.

Today, several manufacturers use down, a mixture of down and feathers, and wool as insulation for down jackets worn by residents of the Polar region. The first two types of materials are characterized by their light weight, low thermal conductivity and hygroscopicity, as well as great comfort when worn. This is particularly important if you're going to be wearing this coat for 8–9 months of the year. Premium brands of warm clothing often use natural insulators, continuing the tradition of the pilots and polar explorers from the heroic 1930s who wore one-piece garments made from eiderdown. Ksenia Chilingarova, daughter of the legendary polar explorer Arthur Chilingarov, founded one such brand that combines modern fabrics with goose down. Her collections have gained international acclaim, but they come with a hefty price tag — the company even offers a trade-in service similar to those found in car dealerships. You have the option to trade in your old jacket for a discount.

However, clothes made with natural insulators require meticulous care. If such an item becomes wet, its filler is likely to form dense lumps and lose its beneficial properties. For a long time, this was seen as an insurmountable barrier to using down and feathers in the creation of workwear, but today they are reclaiming their place in the sun.

For instance, in early February, the Don-based company BNV Engineering announced a new insulator for down jackets, trousers, and vests for polar explorers made from natural down that is inflammable. This is crucial for mining companies, which have become regular patrons of the manufacturing facility. Today, according to the manufacturer, its insulation is being purchased by Lukoil, and Gazprom has begun testing at its Arctic sites.

In Yakutia, Lyudmila Rastorgueva has developed a suit based on reindeer wool that allows work at up to -67°C without a break — standard clothing is designed for a three-hour outdoor stay at around -41°C. It was tested by Russian rescuers during the Safe Arctic 2023 training and recommended for use by emergency services staff. According to the project's creator, her designs are a logical extension of the traditions of the indigenous peoples of the North, but with a modern, technological twist. The concept of a three-zone microclimate found in traditional Chukchi clothing inspired Lyudmila Rastorgueva to create her own effective products. In the near future, she plans to expand production by adding "civilian" versions to her workwear lines for everyday use.

The use of insulators made from natural materials is not only practical in terms of operational qualities but can also significantly contribute to the economy of the AZRF. The expansion of reindeer fur clothing production opens up a broad market for reindeer herders, while the procurement of exclusive materials like eiderdown presents opportunities for new industries.

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